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Plettenberg Bay - what's the big deal?
Author: Alice Gully
When you mention South Africa to people in the UK, everyone seems to have a connection with Plett, whether it’s a childhood memory or a friend of a friend who always goes there for Christmas. They are always fond and endearing stories and it’s seemingly the trendy place to own property and to be seen.
However as I found out on a recent visit over Hogmanay, there is so much more to Plettenberg Bay than large houses, beaches and bars. The variety of accommodation is huge, from small B&B’s to incredible 5 star hotels, and you can stay on the beach, in town or tucked away on a private farm or small estate a few miles away. I enjoyed the Plettenberg area from Kurland which has to be one of the most beautiful lodges in South Africa. Set just below the mountains in lush green grounds, this opulent Dutch style South African farm was started by polo enthusiast Clifford Elphick as a way of enjoying his polo habit.
You could be more than content staying within the boundaries of the estate, enjoying the spa, quad bikes, mountain bikes, polo ponies, endless walks and the pool. There is a dedicated children’s area including a separate pool and play area, and every parent I met was raving about the nannies, children’s activities and safety. We met two children who didn’t want to return to their parents after supper each night and who cried buckets as they left on their last day.
I think it’s a great shame to stay in this area and not explore the rugged coastline away from the famous beaches. A walk around Robberg point at the end of Plettenberg Bay takes about four hours and it’s worth packing a picnic and taking longer if you can. The view up the coast is fantastic, we saw hundreds of Cape fur seals playing in the waves as well as dolphins. In season, June to October, whale watching from here is spectacular. There were also oyster catchers, nesting kelp gulls, petrels, subantarctic skua and the sooty shearwater which I learnt about at university. About an hour into the walk you come across one of the prettiest beaches I saw - well worth the hike to avoid the busier beaches in Plettenberg itself. Other good walks include those in the Tsitkamma Mountains (fairly strenuous), along the Otter Trail, and along the coast from Storms River and Nature’s Valley. We could have walked somewhere different every day for a week.
From Plettenberg Bay there are a number of boat companies willing to take you to view the whales, dolphins, seals and even the odd shark. I opted for a kayaking trip out in the bay with a Zimbabwean guide. During three hours of peaceful kayaking we got incredibly close to dolphins and seals, and in the whale season you can get within metres of the Southern Right whale.
We also managed to play golf, eat out in acclaimed restaurants, swim in the sea and watch Australia play South Africa in the polo world cup. If time away was not a problem I would highly recommend a ten night stay in this area to make sure that you enjoyed all the various areas. If you travel with a family there are wildlife parks on the doorstep, bird parks and reptile parks to explore, cliff jumping, paragliding, abseiling and a long list of other well thought out family friendly activities within a few miles drive.